mimosa, here's how to plant
mimosa, here's how to plant
Today March 8, 2010, International Women's Day - International Women's Day in fact - throughout Italy will sell thousands of bunches of mimosa, a symbol chosen to mark and celebrate this anniversary. But what will happen, once past the party? Most will be left to dry and then discarded. Here are some tricks to create the bouquet, a gift received, your plant to grow all of mimosa.
Perhaps not everyone knows that the mimosa is an acacia and more specifically the Acacea dealbata. Mimosaceae belongs to the family and is native island of Tasmania in Australia where it reaches 30 m in height. The first specimens were imported into Europe in the nineteenth century. Here in Italy, found a situation of optimal growth in warm temperate areas of the coastal strip on fertile, moist, well drained and slightly acidic.
E 'an evergreen shrub and is extremely sensitive to cold and high summer temperatures. It can then be grown in mild climates tend to be, where in winter the temperature should not drop below -10 degrees. It blooms from February to April depending on weather conditions. May be taken in pots on the balcony or in the home, in the light of the sun, but away from heat sources such as radiators and sheltered from the wind. Requires an acid soil, moist but draining. It should be watered moderately during the autumn and winter and abundant in the summer months.
The best time for planting of trees is from October to March.
For the first year of life, the mimosa plant should be pruned continuously and only then you can not do it or prune only after flowering.
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But back to us and how to make cuttings from your bunches of mimosa.
The cutting is a method of propagation molto utilizzato, in quanto ci offre notevoli vantaggi: radica con grande facilità, necessita di pochi accorgimenti per avere successo, se ne possono ottenere molteplici anche da una pianta piccola e non ultimo crea un "clone" perfettamente identico alla pianta madre. Si possono produrre diversi tipi di talee a seconda del periodo dell'anno e della pianta che vogliamo riprodurre anche se in genere ogni pianta mostra di radicare in modo più o meno rapido a seconda del tipo di talee che andremo a prelevare: ad esempio i gerani radicano molto facilmente per talea erbacea mentre per le rose le più adatte sono sicuramente le legnose o semilegnose.
Nel nostro caso useremo talee molto giovani in quanto ottenute da rami verdi. Vediamo nel dettaglio di what equipment we will need: *
- grafting knife or pruning shears
* - *
peat - sand
* - a fungicide
* - plastic containers or plastic bottles better
start with cuttings taken from branches of our deck. They should have a length of about 5-15 cm and be cut sharply just below a bud, with an oblique cut, without blurring. For this reason we will use a grafting knife or sharp pruning shears.
A good way to decide the final length of our cuttings will be to count the nodes on the branch by ensuring that there are at least three.
Without this we must remove the leaves present severing the stem, at least two-thirds of the length of our cuttings from the bottom, leaving only a few leaves. This will allow us to bury completely in the substrate of our rooting cuttings and significantly decrease the surface breathable drastically decreasing the water dispersion.
usually to promote rooting of cuttings, we recommend the use of rooting hormones, sold in both liquid and powder. We do not recommend, however, since the use of synthetic chemical substances that mimic the presence of large quantities of fertilizer active. Then simply stimulate a natural potential of the plant to produce roots in the presence of soil fertilized and then you can easily do without it because since it is acidic or saline particular result of the processing components of the fertilizer, can often be toxic.
Our cuttings are now ready, but we see how to prepare the substrate to be very soft and light to allow an unobstructed root growth, proper aeration, allowing them to maintain a good moisture content.
A good soil for rooting will consist of one part shredded peat well and an equal share of well-washed river sand. Once mixed together they will add to the mix a small amount of perlite to increase capacity ventilation. Finally, to be sure that the soil maintains a high degree of humidity will add a 15-20% vermiculite or finely shredded pine bark.
Now we fill our vessels, or even better the cut of transparent plastic bottles for our purpose, the freshly prepared substrate radical.
We just have to put our cuttings in containers buried for at least two-thirds of the length, making sure the polarity of the branch, with the bottom part and then putting them down. If in doubt there is a simple trick, just follow the gems that are always directed toward the apex of the branch. After planting the
Our cuttings and pressing the soil around your fingers and plenty of water can fill the container with a plastic bag, such as frozen food, so as to control evaporation and young cuttings to ensure an environment saturated with moisture. The containers are then placed in a bright location, in a place sheltered from the cold and wind. Once the roots of our cuttings will be well developed these will be placed in a larger container, and after at least two years, will be planted.
I wish you a "good growth".
Lorenzo De Ritis
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